Going to the Bugaboos!

Well, it started as an entry on my Fridge List and was finally crossed of Sunday night when I got home!  TheList is a piece of scrap paper where my husband and I write down all our crazy ideas of things that sounds fun to do or experience.  Oddly enough, it seems most of the trips we’ve ticked off have just fallen into place sans planning – I take it as a sign they were meant to be crossed off :)

Earlier this winter, I decided I wanted to learn trad climb this summer.  Then along came the opportunity to sign up for a women’s alpine climbing trip in the Bugaboos with Sarah Hueniken & Kirsten Knechtel.  Three of my friends (including one of my main climbing partners) were also signing up so it seemed like a no-brainer to go learn to alpine climb in one of the most scenic locations in the world!

Day 1:

We met in Brisco, BC at 9am and started driving down the ~45km logging road to the Bugs parking lot.  I was initially worried about the state of the logging road after all the rains we had the week before but turns out it was in great shape with only one big water hole.  I drove in my Forester and had no problem whatsoever with clearance.  I even saw a few cars in the parking lot that made it in. I was glad I had spent the night before in Canmore as opposed to driving from Calgary that morning since it required a fair amount of concentration to avoid potholes. (Here’s a link to a map of the park if you’re curious and trail conditions)

You round a corner on the drive in and see this! Houndstooth is in the centre. Also there are suicidal ground squirrels all over the road. There must be quite a few Darwin awards given out each summer.

As we pulled in to the parking lot interrupted a huge porcupine’s search for an afternoon automobile snack.  There is plenty of chicken wire in the parking lot and it was easy to wrap it around the car (being sure to cover the wheel wells).  I was a little worried about scratching the car since it’s pretty new but it wasn’t hard to secure the wire logs & stone.  It does help though to create a lip on the bottom on which you can place the stones.  We bended the wire to create the lip before wrapping the car.

I may have overdone the wire/log/rock barricade but it was necessary for my peace of mind!

The hike up was short (5km) but steep (700m) because all of the elevation gain happens in the last ~3km.  Some of the steeper sections have steps and chains and there is one ladder.  The ladder is … awkward.  Metal ladder + wet boots + heavy pack + broken  & sharp handrail at the top makes things interesting.

Once at the Kain Hut, we had time to unpack, sort gear, have dinner and plan for the next day.  For inquiring minds, the first level of the hut has the kitchen & eating area, the second level is bunks and the third level has bunks as well.

View from the hut.

Day 2:

Our goal for the day was to climb Eastpost Spire so we started the morning off with a quick review of gear placements, gear anchors and different belay techniques for various scenarios.  Then we headed off to Eastpost, passing the Applebee campground.  There was a TON of snow still in the Bugs.  All of the main trails were covered in ~2m of snow as was most of the campground.  Once we got to Easpost we paired off and scrambled the first half then pitched out the second half.  It probably wasn’t necessary to pitch out most of what we climbed but it was really good practice to be continually placing gear, setting anchors, belaying, swapping leads & removing anchors.  By the end I felt really confident in my gear skills and it gave me a good appreciation of how inefficiency can turn into huge amounts of time wasted over several pitches!

Easpost Spire. Our route was on the backside.  You can see a tent in the snow-covered Applebee Campground

View of Snowpatch Spire from Eastpost Spire. You can also see the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col.

The last pitch was my favourite as it was a real 5th class pitch (5.2ish?) and I got to lead it!  I guess that qualifies as my first trad lead.  And I even did it in boots :)

Me leading the last pitch – Thanks Sarah H. for the pic! And thanks OR for the awesome pink jacket :) It was perfect for 5 sunny Bugaboo days! We also got a prussik and cordelette from Sterling which were put to good use on the rap!

View from the summit of Easpost

Going down was less fun as you have to be mindful to watch each step.  Best part of coming down was when we got to glissade (aka bum slide!!) down the snow slopes to the hut.

Day 3:

Houndstooth was on the agenda for the day so we hiked up to the foot of the Bugaboo glacier and went over some rope management before heading off.  We started at 7am and all the girls took turns leading. Eventually we were at the base of Houndstooth and needed to head up a steep snow slope & cross the bergschrund.  It was a little intimidating at first looking at what we had to go up but once you got going, it didn’t seem so steep or difficult.  We wore crampons all the way up to the summit and slung rocks or place gear in a few places due to the amount of snow at the top and the exposure.  Apparently the top of the route is usually snow free!

The is the left side of Snowpatch Spire. I took this from the Bugaboo glacier.

Walking on the Bugaboo glacier

Crossing the bergschrund on Houndstooth

Going up …

Looking at Marmolata from Houndstooth

I loved this face of Snowpatch Spire. So huge!

One of the highlights of the evening was practicing self-arrest.  We found this nice steep slope right under Snowpatch Spire and practiced falling in different ways (on your front, back, etc) and stopping yourself with your axe.  Turns out the sliding was more fun than the self-arresting part so we had a huge bum slide competition to the bottom :)

Day 4:

This was our longest day and we were up at 5am, eating breakfast and 5:20am and out the door at 6am.  We hiked up Bubaboo-Snowpatch col to the base of the Kain route on Bugaboo Spire.  Turns out 5:20am breakfast was a bit early for my digestive system and it let me know!  Thankfully there is an open-air outhouse at the col, though no toilet paper so bring a day amount if you plan on using it!  We scrambled some sections of the route and pitched others that had exposure.  We knew going up that due to conditions we wouldn’t make it to the top but it still hurt a bit to pack the rock shoes and not wear them :)  The route was beautiful though and we had fantastic views of the Howsers and Snowpatch Spire.  For the fourth day in a row we had blue skies and intense sun.  It was hard to believe that some people come up to climb and get shut down for days due to bad weather.  It was so hot that we decided not to descend the col (rockfall & avalanche hazard) and instead passed behind Snowpatch & Pigeon Spire and descended onto the Bugaboo glacier to return home.

From the Kain route, you can see the footprints up the glacier and the Howsers on the right. We would follow those steps around Snowpatch & Pigeon Spire to get home after.

The right side of Snowpatch Spire from on the Kain route

The snowy Howsers

Wind sculpted snow on the Bugaboo glacier

Walking back on the glacier was akin to post-holing in an oven!  It was sunny and had to be at least 35C.  Because of the intensity of the sun and reflection on the snow there was no way I was exposing any skin so most of us resorted to stuffing snow down our clothes and putting snowballs on our heads to beat the heat.  13.75hrs later we were back at the hut enjoying a late supper and WINE!

Day 5:

By this point everyone was bordering on being overcooked from 4 straight days of sun so we spend the morning practicing crevasse rescue, t-slot anchors & rope ascension outside the hut on one of the boulders that had a deep snow moat.  After lunch we headed back down to the parking lot.

Overall this was such an amazing experience!  I got to finally check out the Bugaboos including a trying a classic route, I got to climb on granite for the first time, I did my first trad lead, I gained a lot of confidence in my alpine climbing skills & I got to do it all with a great group of friends!  I’ll try and post my packing list as well as some more pics in a few days.  Unfortunately not too many of me since I was behind the camera most of the time :)


Summer mountaineering on the Wapta

Back in January I decided to sign up with a friend for a Women’s Intro to Mountaineering course that was offered through Yamnuska Mountain Adventures.  Long story short, the course was amazing and I can’t believe how much I learned! The other ladies on the course and the guides were also great company and we had a blast together for 5 days.

Day 1: Hike in to Bow Hut

I drove in to Canmore for 8:30am to meet everyone at Yamnuska’s offices.  Most of the technical gear we needed (axes, crampons, helmets, harnesses) was already at the hut but we needed to carry up toilet paper and some of the food.  I also chose to bring up my own harness and helmet because I really like the way mine fit.  Those turned out to be worth the weight!  Erica & Merrie-Beth were our guides and they helped everyone go though their pack to make sure they had everything.  Here’s my packing list of what I brought.

Bow lake - looking towards Mt St Nicholas

Canyon we had to cross - the boulder is out of sight on the left

Next, we all drove out to Bow Lake to start the hike tot he hut.  At one point, you have to cross a boulder that’s lodged at the top of a canyon.  It wasn’t too hard but you do get a great view of how far down it would be!  When we finally arrived at the hut we picked our bunks, had dinner and went over knots & how to fit crampons.  One thing I discovered is that regular crampons are made for large feet.  I have a women’s size 38 boot and the bar at the bottom that you adjust stuck out the end of my crampon which is not ideal.

Day 2:  Climbing Mt Olive

View of Mt St Nic on the way up to the Nicholas/Olive col

We woke up to rain, so we took our time having breakfast to give the skies a chance to clear.  On the toe of the glacier we learned to sort the ropes for teams of 5 and how to tie in to the rope including adding a prusik.  Then it was on to the glacier for the trek up to the col between Mt Olive and Mt St Nicholas.  Once at the col, Erica & Merrie-Beth decided that we would climb Mt Olive so we changed our set-up so we could short-rope up the snow slopes on Olive.  Once up the snow slopes, it’s a fairly straightforward walk on rock to the summit.  The views were incredible up there and you could see most of the Wapta icefields.  On the way down, it started to drizzle and turned into a full-on downpour!  I learned very quickly the importance of full length side zips on rain pants.  Without long zips I couldn’t put my pants on over boots so I had to take my boots off first.  It was such a hassle; I would never recommend pants without full length zips after that!  Luckily, by the end of the trip I became really good quickly taking off my boots to get my rain pants on.  When we got back to the hut we had another guide Vanessa join us and she had hot soup waiting!  Since the next day’s weather looked like more of the same, that evening we went over reading maps & taking bearings in case of any whiteouts.

Summit of Mt Olive. It was odd being above everything else and so near the clouds

Day 3: Bow Hut to Peyto Hut

The trip to Peyto was fairly easy.  In any case it was easier than when I did it on skis this winter!  It was also neat to see the scenery in the summer as opposed to the winter.  It’s really a beautiful hike especially when the hut finally comes into view.  I think I even found the crack where we got under the glacier this past winter.  Once at the hut it predictably started raining again so we waited it out and had tea before heading to a large hill to practice self-arrest.  One word for practising self-arrest? FUN!  It’s like a good excuse to launch yourself down a hill and slide down.  I definitely “practiced” more than I needed to :)  We also went over t-slot anchors and how to do crevasse rescue with two rope teams.

Approaching Peyto Hut - you can see it in the distance

Glaciers and watermelon algae near Peyto Hut (which is on the hill on the right side of the picture)

Day 4: Peyto Hut to Mt Rhonda to Bow Hut

View from the porch of Peyto Hut in the morning

On the way back to Bow hut, we were going to stop to climb Mt Rhonda (Mt Thompson was another option but it looked too icy after all the rain/snow).  Also, we were given the opportunity to lead our rope teams if we wanted.  I volunteered and got to lead my team from the hut up to the base of Mt Rhonda.  Rhonda was a fun climb and before long we were at the top with wind gusting around us.  It felt pretty cold and I had all my layers on.  The bottom of my nose also got wind chapped because it had been runny.  On the plus side, the skies cleared and it made for some pretty neat shots.  On the way back, I got to lead our rope team again as no one else wanted to.

Sun & clouds on Peyto Peak. You can see an avalanche that resulted from cornice failure near the peak.

Looking back at my rope team as we leave the hut (it's in the distance on the hill with the outhouse beside it)

It’s such a different experience to be leading your team and I was so proud that I wound up leading almost the whole day.  You’re always looking at the terrain and trying to pick the safest route (i.e., avoiding areas that might be more crevassed) and checking the weather.  There was one time where I had the compass out taking bearings because it looked like we might get caught it a whiteout.  Also, I didn’t realize how hard it is to set good tracks and set the pace.  As Erica so kindly pointed out, I walk like a duck normally so I had to always be thinking about my steps so everyone else could follow.  Overall, this had to be one of the coolest experiences of the trip  At one point when we probed a safe area for the group to stop to eat, I realized I had walked over the snow bridge on a metre wide crevasse!  Thankfully there was still 150 – 180cm of snow on the glacier so the risk of falling into a crevasse was pretty small.

On the way to Mt Rhonda

View of Yoho National Park from the summit

Leaving Mt Rhonda behind us

View as I walked - notice there's no footprints in front of me!

Day 5:  Crevasse Rescue

We started the day going over the rope systems for crevasse rescue in the hut, then moved outside to practice on the foot of the glacier.  I’d taken rock rescue earlier this spring and found that it really helped my understanding of what we were doing.  The main ideas of transferring load, and escaping the belay are similar but how you execute them is a little different.  While we were practicing and I was self-arresting to catch a fall,  I had my face near the snow and noticed that all the red watermelon algae *does* actually smell like watermelon.  Afterwards, we headed onto an area of the glacier where the ice was exposed to check out the crevasses and practice walking around/over them with crampons.  We also went over ice screw placement and Merrie-Beth showed us v-thread anchors.


Last walk back to Bow hut

Sunset at the hut - it took until 11:38pm for it to set completely. I waited.

Day 6: Hike out of Bow Hut

The hike out went well and we all moved pretty fast.  Before long we were back at the van and wondered over to the nearby Num-Ti-Jah lodge to treat ourselves to flushing toilets and running water.  It was heavenly!

Boulder crossing on the way back

Alpine flowers on the hike out

Overall it was such a great trip to learn glacier skills.  I definitely feel confident enough to go back and try some of the peaks in the area.  And while the weather was less than stellar the whole trip it did make for great learning conditions, especially whiteout navigation!  Everyone had rain gear so it didn’t matter too much what the weather was like.    Big thanks to all the guides (MB, Erica & Vanessa) and all the girls who made this such a fantastic trip! I definitely can’t wait to put my skills to use on another climb next summer!

Wapta Mountaineering Pics

Wapta Summer, a set on Flickr.

Wapta icefields ski touring

A few weeks ago, my husband got an email asking if we were interested in participating in a research trip out to the Wapta glacier to help a local guide produce teaching materials on glaciers and glaciation.  I immediately responded with a reserved “EMAILTHEMNOWANDSAYWELLGO!!”.  When I heard back that the trip was on, the rush was on to buy a new backpack, sleeping bag and other miscellaneous items as well as rent and pick up gear and get everything packed.

After a 4:30am wakeup on Saturday, we met our group at 8am at Bow Lake on the Icefields Parkway. The plan was to skin in to Bow Hut (600m of elevation gain over 8km).  Some sections are in avalanche terrain but the risk that day was low-moderate so we felt ok crossing one by one. When we got to the hut  I did some serious tea drinking and leg stretching in my hut booties.  We had a lot of fun chatting with everyone, eating dinner and enjoying the hut views.

Vulture glacier which we passed underneath on the way to the hut - I moved fast! The final uphill after crossing this section is hard. Time slowed and my pack seemed to double in weight. Laws of physics: defied.

Avalanche fracture line we could see from the hut

Sunset from the hut balcony

Sunday morning we left around 8am to ski 6km to Peyto Hut.    The goal was to find and dig out the entrance to an ice cave which ran beneath the glacier.  Oh and we also got to ski some sweet lines :)  After 30 min of digging, we rigged an anchor and slid down the small ice tunnel into the cave.  It so neat knowing that I was underneath a glacier, somewhere that fewer than 20 people have probably ever been.  So many different patterns, formations and textures to the ice.  It really gave you a sense of how old the glacier was and what forces formed it.  After exploring the cave we still had to ski 12km to get back to the cars. In total we were out for 12 hrs on Sunday and skied 20km!  Needless to say I enjoyed my 11pm burger at Wendy’s in Canmore on the way home.

On the way in to Peyto Hut

Entrance to the cave

Neat patterns in the ice

The whole experience was amazing.  There is something that is so peaceful about being high up on a glacier seeing nothing but snow, peaks and blue skies.  No one is around and it’s just you watching one ski move in front of the other as you make your way up a slope.  It’s so hard to describe what it’s like up there, one of those “have to have been there” type of things.  One of the best parts though was getting to do this with friends.

Wapta icefields between Bow Hut and Peyto Hut

Mt St Nicholas which I may get to climb this summer on my mountaineering course

Stopping for a zen moment on the way out

On a separate note, I was especially psyched for this trip because I just signed up for a 6-day women’s mountaineering course this summer.  It’s run by Yamnuska Mountain Adventures and will also be based out of Bow Hut.  The course is geared towards teaching the skills you need to climb some of the local peaks on your own (ie navigation, glacier safety, roped travel, etc).

Bow Hut in the summer - Photo from Meghan Ward

In the spirit of not forgetting what I learnt, I made a list of what I packed (or wish I had packed):


  • 2 pairs of socks & underwear
  • synthetic tank top with built in bra
  • light wool long sleeve top
  • medium fleece long sleeve top
  • heavy fleece sweater with hood
  • light wool leggings
  • medium fleece leggings
  • insulated ski pants
  • down sweater
  • hardshell
  • waterproof ski mitts
  • wool hat
  • ski goggles & sunglasses
  • neckwarmer
  • hut booties


  • toothbrush & toothpaste
  • sunscreen (have handy to re-apply while skiing on the glacier – I re-applied twice and still burnt!)
  • quickdry facecloth
  • lipbalm with sunscreen
  • for next time: soap &  hand sanitizer – lots and lots of hand sanitizer.  I might bring deodorant for a longer trip.


  • 0°C sleeping bag (I’d bring a 5°C for the summer)
  • packable pillow
  • earplugs – very important in huts!!


  • I wish I had brought a digital watch – next time
  • for longer trips I’d bring some reading material and a journal
  • camera
  • headlamp
  • first aid kit, tylenol, ibuprofen & blister kit  – this is very important especially with rental boots!
  • 50L backpack
Also, if you leave your car out when it’s snowy and windy, you’ll get snow and ice in your tire wells which will throw off your car’s alignment unless it’s been knocked out.